Compressor vs Freezer-Bowl Ice Cream Makers
A freezer-bowl ice cream maker costs about $70 and makes excellent ice cream if you plan ahead. A compressor model costs $300 or more and is ready anytime. Here's how to choose.
The short version: a freezer-bowl ice cream maker is cheap, small and makes surprisingly great ice cream, but you have to freeze the bowl the night before and you get one batch at a time. A compressor machine has its own freezer, so it’s ready whenever you are and can make batch after batch, but it’s big, heavy and expensive.
In side-by-side tests, the cheap option often holds its own. CNN Underscored’s overall winner was a $70 Cuisinart freezer-bowl machine.
At a glance
| Freezer bowl | Compressor | |
|---|---|---|
| Typical price | $50 to $100 | $300 to $500 |
| Prep | Freeze bowl overnight (8+ hours) | None |
| Batches | One, then refreeze | Back to back |
| Churn time | About 15 to 20 minutes | About 25 to 45 minutes |
| Size and weight | Small and light | Big and often 20+ lb |
| Noise | Can be loud | Steady hum, often quieter |
| Cleanup | Wait for bowl to thaw | Easy, nothing frozen to wait on |
Churn times are from CNN Underscored and GearLab testing of popular models.
How a freezer-bowl machine works
The bowl has a liquid coolant sealed in its double walls. You freeze it solid, then a motor turns a paddle while the bowl’s cold freezes the base. Once the coolant warms up, it’s done, which is why you only get one batch.
Why people like them:
- Cheap. CNN’s top pick, the Cuisinart ICE-21, costs about $70.
- Great texture. CNN found the ICE-21 among the smoothest of all 10 machines it tested. GearLab’s judges said it made excellent gelato.
- Small. It fits in a cabinet. The bowl just has to fit in your freezer.
What bugs us:
- You have to plan. The bowl needs at least 8 hours in a cold freezer, and a not-quite-frozen bowl gives you soup.
- One batch. Want two flavors? Buy a second bowl.
- Cleanup waits. GearLab found you have to let the bowl thaw before washing, or water freezes to it.
- Noise. CNN called the ICE-21 very loud.
How a compressor machine works
A compressor machine has the same refrigeration system as a small freezer built into its base. It chills the bowl while the paddle turns, as long as it’s plugged in.
Why people like them:
- No planning. Make ice cream on a whim.
- Back-to-back batches. Great for parties or several flavors.
- Easier cleanup. No frozen bowl to wait on.
- Often quieter. CNN found its top compressor pick, the Whynter ICM-201SB, quiet enough to run while watching TV.
What bugs us:
- Price. Usually $300 and up.
- Size and weight. They need permanent counter space or a sturdy shelf.
- Slower per batch. They start at room temperature, so churning usually takes longer.
What about the Ninja Creami?
The Creami is a third kind of machine. You freeze your base in its pint containers for about a day, then a fast blade shaves and whips the frozen block. It’s great for protein shakes and low-sugar recipes, but CNN Underscored found its regular dairy ice cream icy and powdery. It needs a day of planning, like a freezer bowl.
Which should you buy?
Get a freezer-bowl machine if:
- You make ice cream now and then
- You’re on a budget
- You have freezer space but not counter space
Get a compressor machine if:
- You make ice cream often or want several flavors at once
- You hate planning ahead
- You have the counter space and budget
See our picks for the best ice cream makers with a compressor.
FAQ
Does a compressor make better ice cream? Not necessarily. In CNN’s testing, a $70 freezer-bowl machine was among the creamiest of all.
How long does a freezer bowl take to freeze? At least 8 hours, ideally overnight, in a freezer set to 0°F or colder. Shake it: if you hear liquid sloshing, it’s not ready.
Can I store the bowl in the freezer? Yes. Keeping it in the freezer full-time means it’s always ready.